Just a quick blog and details will be filled in shortly. I had written a fair bit of this blog on the way to Philadelphia and when the bus stopped at a little hick stop on the way the internet died when the bus was turned off and I lost it all. Grrr - not enough time then to start again as I was about to post it and then pack up laptop in preparation to disembark at Philly.
Anyhoo, Newport, Rhode Island, is a fascinating place. Every couple of blocks you could be in a different town as the focus, landscape, and archecture changes.
Down around the wharves and piers it is party town central with restaurants, cafes, clubs, boats, and heaps of party atmosphere. Considering they relay on the tourist trade and have to make a year's income in the few summer months, prices at most places were very reasonable.
I finally got to have a proper lobster meal and paid - wait for it - $12.95. That was for a whole steamed lobster served with hot butter and grilled asparagus. Very nice indeed. Had two glasses of wine with it and I think the waiter felt sorry for the poor old lady travelling on her own and gave me a much better quality Chardy for my second glass that what I was charged Again, very nice indeed.
Will write more on Newport shortly, want to just create a post for Philadelphia now.
"Same as it ever was... Same as it ever was... Same as it ever was... Same as it ever was... And you may ask yourself, What is that beautiful house? And you may ask yourself, Where does that highway go to? And you may ask yourself, Am I right?...Am I wrong? And you may say to yourself, My God!...What have I done?" Excerpt from Talking Heads Once in a lifetime
Thursday, 30 June 2011
Wednesday, 29 June 2011
Bart's home
Just on the bus now leaving Springfield, Massachusetts behind and heading onto Newport, Rhode Island.
My host was lovely and it was most excellent to again have cats (and a dog) to pat.
I'm quite sure this isn't the Springfield from the Simpsons, but it is the home of Dr Suess. There are some large sculptures to commemorate him in the museum grounds and I have been told that the sculptor is his step daughter. Talent must oooze through the family.
A number of museums and galleries are conveniently located in the one place with the one entry fee. The public can enjoy the gardens and sculptures free of charge, but a fee is charged to enter the actual buildings.
It actually is located right behind the host and it was the view from my fourth floor bedroom window.
One of the galleries houses a collection that a couple accrued during their life and travels. The guy actually retired at 35 years of age after making a bucket of money in business and then just travelled and bought artifacts for the next 40 years or so. Quite a lot of it is Asian, along with bits and pieces from all over the world. They bequeathed the collection to the city providing a suitable building was established to house it.
In another of the galleries, there is a wonderful print exhib. Some Kandinsky and Klee works are on display along with a few other notables.
But my favourite exhib is one organised by the National Parks where artists paint images from National Parks across the USA. Each artist has two to three paintings on display and there is information about the relevant park displayed along with artist info. I think it is a great concept and an innovative way for the government to utilise (and pay) artists.
Also, on the way to the bus stop we went out for a quick tour of the tornado affected areas and it was amazing to see one building damaged, yet nothing touched buildings on either side. It must have been a very specific tornado.
Lots of tree were lost in it, much like NQ's cyclone in Feb, and she told me how the visual landscape of Springfield has changed as a consequence. It is a lot more open now.
Also had a drive and a walk through a major park in the town. Much larger than Queens Gardens or Anderson Park and it has pockets of deep/old growth in it. I like the combination of cultivated and wild areas.
My host was lovely and it was most excellent to again have cats (and a dog) to pat.
I'm quite sure this isn't the Springfield from the Simpsons, but it is the home of Dr Suess. There are some large sculptures to commemorate him in the museum grounds and I have been told that the sculptor is his step daughter. Talent must oooze through the family.
A number of museums and galleries are conveniently located in the one place with the one entry fee. The public can enjoy the gardens and sculptures free of charge, but a fee is charged to enter the actual buildings.
It actually is located right behind the host and it was the view from my fourth floor bedroom window.
One of the galleries houses a collection that a couple accrued during their life and travels. The guy actually retired at 35 years of age after making a bucket of money in business and then just travelled and bought artifacts for the next 40 years or so. Quite a lot of it is Asian, along with bits and pieces from all over the world. They bequeathed the collection to the city providing a suitable building was established to house it.
In another of the galleries, there is a wonderful print exhib. Some Kandinsky and Klee works are on display along with a few other notables.
But my favourite exhib is one organised by the National Parks where artists paint images from National Parks across the USA. Each artist has two to three paintings on display and there is information about the relevant park displayed along with artist info. I think it is a great concept and an innovative way for the government to utilise (and pay) artists.
Also, on the way to the bus stop we went out for a quick tour of the tornado affected areas and it was amazing to see one building damaged, yet nothing touched buildings on either side. It must have been a very specific tornado.
Lots of tree were lost in it, much like NQ's cyclone in Feb, and she told me how the visual landscape of Springfield has changed as a consequence. It is a lot more open now.
Also had a drive and a walk through a major park in the town. Much larger than Queens Gardens or Anderson Park and it has pockets of deep/old growth in it. I like the combination of cultivated and wild areas.
Monday, 27 June 2011
Confusing with New England, USA having UK place names
Just a quick update. On the bus from Manchester, New Hampshire to Springfield, Massachusetts at the moment. A bit annoyed as the bus for the first leg was an hour late so I missed my connecting bus that was meant to get me in to Springfield at 7pm. Now I'm looking at a 10pm arrival if all goes well. And the internet on the first bus didn't work - slack, eh?
Had a lovely two days and nights with a gorgeous grey cat - but no substitute for my Merlin (and Maab). He would sleep with me and cuddle up and purr madly. He adopted the Servas hosts I stayed with only a month ago and is just a lovely natured cat.
My hosts took me for a trip to Portsmouth (pronounced Portsmith) yesterday. Had a yummy brunch at a retro cafe that was so much in demand you had to leave your name and wait out on the pavement until a table was available, about 30 minutes or so.
Very annoyed that I left my camera at their house. The male partner even asked if I had it before I left and I said of course because it is always tied to my bag. Couldn't believe that I had left it behind because I untied it the night before to take a piccie of the dinner table. Idiot! I even argued with that little nagging voice in my head that I had it ...
Anyhoo, Portsmouth was another lovely village with lots of art and crafts around. Just walking around on the trail of a pirate grave we happened upon an artist market. Unfortunately for the stall holders it seems it wasn't promoted much and people were only accidentally stumbling across it like we had.
Across the river was the state of Maine. Still haven't managed to penetrate that pesky state and that was the main one I wanted to visit while here. Don't think I'll get there now as I have two nights in regional Massachusetts (where the tornado hit a week or two ago); two nights in Newport, Rhode Island; then just two more nights hopefully in Conneticut before I hit New York.
Although I might have longer as I just received an email from Qantas about my flight out of here on 6 July being changed ... have to ring them when I get off the bus to see what is happening with that.
Have to go now and pack up the laptop etc as the battery is getting flat. Imagine, a bus with no powerpoints again. Pretty slack!
Had a lovely two days and nights with a gorgeous grey cat - but no substitute for my Merlin (and Maab). He would sleep with me and cuddle up and purr madly. He adopted the Servas hosts I stayed with only a month ago and is just a lovely natured cat.
My hosts took me for a trip to Portsmouth (pronounced Portsmith) yesterday. Had a yummy brunch at a retro cafe that was so much in demand you had to leave your name and wait out on the pavement until a table was available, about 30 minutes or so.
Very annoyed that I left my camera at their house. The male partner even asked if I had it before I left and I said of course because it is always tied to my bag. Couldn't believe that I had left it behind because I untied it the night before to take a piccie of the dinner table. Idiot! I even argued with that little nagging voice in my head that I had it ...
Anyhoo, Portsmouth was another lovely village with lots of art and crafts around. Just walking around on the trail of a pirate grave we happened upon an artist market. Unfortunately for the stall holders it seems it wasn't promoted much and people were only accidentally stumbling across it like we had.
Across the river was the state of Maine. Still haven't managed to penetrate that pesky state and that was the main one I wanted to visit while here. Don't think I'll get there now as I have two nights in regional Massachusetts (where the tornado hit a week or two ago); two nights in Newport, Rhode Island; then just two more nights hopefully in Conneticut before I hit New York.
Although I might have longer as I just received an email from Qantas about my flight out of here on 6 July being changed ... have to ring them when I get off the bus to see what is happening with that.
Have to go now and pack up the laptop etc as the battery is getting flat. Imagine, a bus with no powerpoints again. Pretty slack!
Thursday, 23 June 2011
More mature travel alert!
Well, what can I say? After all of the pimple picking, loud, know-it-all travelling youths at hostels, this hostel at White River Junction, Vermont is a breath of fresh air.
Because it isn't in a large or popular town; and doesn't have all of the facilities the young crowd want, I think there is just one or two other people here in the youth hostel wing.
Actually it is an old style hotel called the Coolidge Inn, but they have opened up one wing as a hostel. Here is a link for more information.
All of the rooms are single (private) occupancy in this old, heritage-protected building and the room I have is bigger than the four bed dorm I stayed in at the Boston youth hostel last night. It feels like I'm staying in a heritage pub, or a quaint B&B, or similar, with wide wooden hallways, lounge areas, and an art exhib in the foyer. But in the hostel wing, it has a kitchen and lounge area for self-sufficiency - very basic, but that helps keep the riff raff away.
And all for the nearly the price I paid for a four or more bed dorm in other places. Just $45 bucks a night for some peace and quiet, a kitchen, and much faster wifi internet than that crud place I stayed in at Salem for $105 a night. Gotta love it here!
And ... looking at the tourism brochures at hand and after walking around the small ville, I am in the hub of the antique, vintage clothing, art and craft area of Vermont. Wish I had a car to get around in. Everything is soooooo close, but just beyond walking distance.
Speaking of walking distance, I have to giggle about local attitudes. I asked a group of four local women where a supermarket was and whether it was within walking distance. After minutes of weighing up what to say, they were still unsure of whether I could walk there in 20 minutes or less - but in reality it was just five minutes away. Maybe on some levels, this ville is a tad too small ...
After I found the supermarket, I bought a bottle of Chardonny, a large slab of steak, a tomato, and an onion for dinner for $8.73. What an excellent dinner!
Tomorrow night I am toying with the idea of visiting the pub next door for a BBQ rib feast and salads for $8.95. Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm ...
Well, well, well, here it is "tomorrow night" and I'm just back from having me a plate full of hickory smoked pork ribs and salad. Great little place and they were just firing up for karaoke when I left (Lenore and Brian, you would love it here).
I really hope the word gets out in the more mature travel circles that this is an interesting place to visit, and especially that the Coolidge Inn (youth hostel) is a grand old place to stay in - and that the youth stay away in droves.
Also, Vermont seems to have a no billboard or other visual pollution law. Just beautiful scenery and no visual clutter.
Lovely spot to linger and have some down-time (Wendy, you will be pleased to know I plan to chillax here). It is still raining, so am spending the day in my room, hammering the internet to get some forward planning done and catch up on a few things.
Only two things to say about this:
1. No, it isn't; and
2. That sign has to be bad for business.
For such a little place, there is a huge art centre. This is at the front door to the centre.
As this place was a central hub for the many nearby towns it was a main railway link.
Okay, maybe the name of this business relates to what should be done to these two buildings.
Small area in an otherwise ugly bit of the village, but what a lovely concept.
Typical style of housing, gotta love that car ruin on the left.
Fire on demand?
Because it isn't in a large or popular town; and doesn't have all of the facilities the young crowd want, I think there is just one or two other people here in the youth hostel wing.
Actually it is an old style hotel called the Coolidge Inn, but they have opened up one wing as a hostel. Here is a link for more information.
All of the rooms are single (private) occupancy in this old, heritage-protected building and the room I have is bigger than the four bed dorm I stayed in at the Boston youth hostel last night. It feels like I'm staying in a heritage pub, or a quaint B&B, or similar, with wide wooden hallways, lounge areas, and an art exhib in the foyer. But in the hostel wing, it has a kitchen and lounge area for self-sufficiency - very basic, but that helps keep the riff raff away.
And all for the nearly the price I paid for a four or more bed dorm in other places. Just $45 bucks a night for some peace and quiet, a kitchen, and much faster wifi internet than that crud place I stayed in at Salem for $105 a night. Gotta love it here!
And ... looking at the tourism brochures at hand and after walking around the small ville, I am in the hub of the antique, vintage clothing, art and craft area of Vermont. Wish I had a car to get around in. Everything is soooooo close, but just beyond walking distance.
Speaking of walking distance, I have to giggle about local attitudes. I asked a group of four local women where a supermarket was and whether it was within walking distance. After minutes of weighing up what to say, they were still unsure of whether I could walk there in 20 minutes or less - but in reality it was just five minutes away. Maybe on some levels, this ville is a tad too small ...
After I found the supermarket, I bought a bottle of Chardonny, a large slab of steak, a tomato, and an onion for dinner for $8.73. What an excellent dinner!
Tomorrow night I am toying with the idea of visiting the pub next door for a BBQ rib feast and salads for $8.95. Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm ...
Well, well, well, here it is "tomorrow night" and I'm just back from having me a plate full of hickory smoked pork ribs and salad. Great little place and they were just firing up for karaoke when I left (Lenore and Brian, you would love it here).
I really hope the word gets out in the more mature travel circles that this is an interesting place to visit, and especially that the Coolidge Inn (youth hostel) is a grand old place to stay in - and that the youth stay away in droves.
Also, Vermont seems to have a no billboard or other visual pollution law. Just beautiful scenery and no visual clutter.
Lovely spot to linger and have some down-time (Wendy, you will be pleased to know I plan to chillax here). It is still raining, so am spending the day in my room, hammering the internet to get some forward planning done and catch up on a few things.
Only two things to say about this:
1. No, it isn't; and
2. That sign has to be bad for business.
For such a little place, there is a huge art centre. This is at the front door to the centre.
As this place was a central hub for the many nearby towns it was a main railway link.
Okay, maybe the name of this business relates to what should be done to these two buildings.
Small area in an otherwise ugly bit of the village, but what a lovely concept.
Typical style of housing, gotta love that car ruin on the left.
Fire on demand?
Wednesday, 22 June 2011
Getting cranky
I am getting old and cranky.
I am fed up with people picking their pimples in public. Doesn't matter where they are, how close they are to me, or whether or not they are sitting at a table in a food place. THEY NOT ONLY PICK THEIR PIMPLES BUT THEY KEEP CHECKING OUT THE LATEST NUGGET THEY GET - THEN FLICK IT OR DROP IT WHEREEVER THEY ARE. Bet you $100 that the person flicking the pimple crap wouldn't like to put his apple down on the table where someone else was dropping pimple crap. Arggggggg, dry retching ...
Right now this dude is less than a metre from me across the table in the YHA dining room and is thoroughly harvesting the life out of his face.
... Couldn't help myself and just had to point it out to him that he is sitting a table where people eat. At least he stopped pus-mining after that.
Hope to leave Boston tomorrow and head into Vermont. Left Salem after one night - don't get me started on that!!! Yep, it is a three exclamation mark situation.
Finally had bad weather today - rainy and miserable.
I am fed up with people picking their pimples in public. Doesn't matter where they are, how close they are to me, or whether or not they are sitting at a table in a food place. THEY NOT ONLY PICK THEIR PIMPLES BUT THEY KEEP CHECKING OUT THE LATEST NUGGET THEY GET - THEN FLICK IT OR DROP IT WHEREEVER THEY ARE. Bet you $100 that the person flicking the pimple crap wouldn't like to put his apple down on the table where someone else was dropping pimple crap. Arggggggg, dry retching ...
Right now this dude is less than a metre from me across the table in the YHA dining room and is thoroughly harvesting the life out of his face.
... Couldn't help myself and just had to point it out to him that he is sitting a table where people eat. At least he stopped pus-mining after that.
Hope to leave Boston tomorrow and head into Vermont. Left Salem after one night - don't get me started on that!!! Yep, it is a three exclamation mark situation.
Finally had bad weather today - rainy and miserable.
Tuesday, 21 June 2011
Salem scam
FERRY RIDE
On the 2pm ferry now from Boston to Salem and I still haven't eaten. The ferry fare is $11.50 one way ($19 return) for the ticket with free wifi and a tourist guide presentation on board. Sunferries has a lot to learn ...
It takes one hour and it is motoring along. I am trying to hunt and gather accommodation online but have given up on that as the sunshine on the screen makes it impossible to read anything and I am missing out on enjoying the ride. Will wait till I get there and make a call or two.
After I get off the internet I start chatting with a woman who lives in Salem. After I mention I was on the internet looking for accommodation, she says she would offer to have me as a guest, except she has her sister and brother-in-law visiting from interstate. By the time we dock in Salem, she offers me dinner the next night as she is having a dinner party and gives me a lift to the info centre downtown.
And that's just about the end of the good part of Salem.
ACCOMMODATION
Onwards to the tourist info centre (passing a multitude of lame witch shops etc - no, not shops for lame witches, just shops full of crap) to source some accommodation and maybe find some midsummer action. Made a phone call to the Clipper Ship Inn as a guide book said was the cheapest place in town and they quoted $90 plus tax for a night. So headed off to a cafe for food and free wifi to hunt and gather a bit more thoroughly before booking there.
All I can say is what a joke Salem accommodation is. Not only do they cost their rooms according to seasonal demands, but quite often they don't even put in a price for those seasonal fluctuations. Seems the pricing method is to pluck a figure out of the air and see if the sucker is prepared to pay it.
So, rang the Clipper Ship Inn back (not even two hours later) to book a room and am told it is now $95 for a single, five bucks dearer. With taxes that went up to $105.
Had little choice, so booked it and walked the mile or so to the Inn and by now it is 6.30pm. I query them about their pricing structure and why the price jumped $5 in two hours and they try to defend it by saying the other room was no longer available. When I query why the price would change for a "different" room she then puts it down to being seasonal changes. I point out that other Salem motels can put in some guide to the different seasonal prices on their websites. She doesn't have an answer, and when I say I am a freelance journo who will be doing an article about my stay in Salem and would like pricing info to include in my article, she nearly falls over herself trying to finally be polite and helpful - but still doesn't provide pricing info. The main reason for that is that they must pluck the figures out of their arse.
Anyhoo, after I get back to my room at 9.30pm after going walkabouts in Salem, I try to connect to the wifi. No luck. After 15 minutes of frustration, I ring the desk to find out what is going on. She says that everybody else can get it, so she doesn't know why I can't. She says she doesn't know much about the wifi system.
Then when I ring back again to say it still isn't even showing up as an option on my computer, she says to try it outside where the signal is stronger and that others have had to do that when it doesn't penetrate the walls.
So hold on, first she says no-one else has a problem, and then she says others have had to go outside ... which is it? I'm going with the obvious answer that they know wifi is NOT getting through to the rooms yet are still promoting rooms with wifi.
After an hour of frustration of walking outside on the balcony to get a connection, then inside to use it for a minute before it drops out, then outside, inside etc I spit the dummy and put my chair outside and sit out there in my pyjamas with the laptop. Still very slow and dropping in and out. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr
Finally go to bed after the reception office has long closed, after hours of mucking about with the wifi for little gain.
And AAAAAAAAAAAAARGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH - dirty sheets! They are obviously rumpled from previous use and don't feel or smell clean, a squashed moth is in there, and horrors of horrors - a small smudged spot of blood where someone has had a sore or pimple etc drop a speck of blood and smeared it as they rolled over or whatever.
What to do? No-one is at reception as it is 1am. So all I can do is rip the pillow cases off and turn the sheets the other way down so I can sleep and tell the office in the morning. Their response? They give me a $3 value card for donuts to make up for all that ... and it didn't even have a credit on it when I redeem it across the road. However, the Dunkin Donut shop said that may be their error and they refunded the $5 I spent on coffee and bacon and cheese breakfast bagel.
After I get online, I read reviews of similar horror stories there. Never stay at the Clipper Ship Inn, and don't bother going to Salem either.
MIDSUMMER IN WITCH CENTRAL
I can't believe my eyes as I walk through the heart of downtown Salem at 3pm after getting off the ferry. It is the northern summer solstice, the Litha sabbat, and here in Witch Central there is nothing happening apart from a token effort at having a few (three) stalls in the mall and they might be there every day for all I know. And really, it is a good thing they didn't bother much more than that as there are only about ten people who look like tourists and maybe five people who look like residents wandering around.
Nothing is planned or promoted for what should be a major sabbat on a witch calendar in a town that markets itself on witches etc because of the Salem witch trials.
I should have got the hint about this place and what they think about tourists when I encounter the first set of traffic lights and the bird call they use to indicate it is safe to cross the road is - wait for it - "Cuckoo, cuckoo". Subtle, eh?
After I check in to my room I shower and head straight back out to be somewhere to mark the setting sun on Solstice and hopefully stumble across some unannounced midsummer happening. Nothing. Nada. Zip. Way to go Salem!
Had a nice walk through the graveyard ...
... and the witch memorial at dusk ...
... and surprisingly, I couldn't take many photos with natural light - or lack there of.
They all turned out much lighter and brighter than I wanted. That is the only spooky thing that happened and even then I think it has something to do with the street lighting and my camera ...
And there is no more to tell about Midsummer in Salem.
TOURISTS, STAY HOME
So, now it is the next morning and after checking out at 11am, I am now dragging my cranky arse back into downtown Salem to put my luggage in a locker and have a look around before getting the hell out of there in the arvie. I'm hoping that at least the town in general is worth the effort and cost to get there.
First place I walk endlessly to is the Railway Station to find a locker. That was my first mistake. From what I can see looking down the huge flight of steps that I'm not lugging my case down without first doing a visual reconnaissance, is that there is no station. Just a platform. Not even a ticket machine. Nada, zip, zero facilities. F*ck all! (Take note of the bus in at the bottom of the stairs)
I backtrack into the downtown visitor centre and does this great ediface to tourism have lockers? You bet your booties they don't!
She suggests I try the museum across the road and/or the hotel on the corner. Immediately I'm thinking I don't like my chances at either as I am not a paying guest at the hotel and I don't have time to check out the museum fully for the $15 entry fee they are asking. But, I think it IS a small town, so maybe there is an understanding about providing facilities to tourists. What the f*ck was I thinking? Of course, when I ask each esteemed establishment all I get are two doses of disdain.
Now I am furious! I drag my even crankier arse back to the tourist info centre and "politely" ask her what facilities exactly does this purely tourist destination place provide for tourists? The chickibabe says most tourists book into a hotel and don't need a locker. I feel like she deems me to be a freeloading interloper in this ville ... well that is the red flag!
My voice gets shrill. My eyes narrow. I try to not vent my spleen on her and "calmly" explain that, well yes, I had actually spent money on accommodation in this hicksville place and after sleeping on overpriced dirty sheets I decided to not spend another night here, and I checked out of that fine establishment this morning and am now trying to find somewhere to stow by bags to look around the place a bit better and buy some lunch, BUT now, after there being no lockers and the attitude I have encountered, I will not be staying one minute more or spending a f*cking penny more in this God forsaken town.
Then I ask her about local buses to the train station because it is raining. Her response? It is less than a mile's walk to the station so Salem doesn't need to have a bus service in the downtown area. Tourists can pay $15 for the tour trolley if they need to get around downtown ...
I leave before I hit the bitch.
So, now, I am trudging in the rain, swearing and cursing like crazy under my breath, heading for the train station again. I lug my baggage down the zillion steps and my visual recce before was correct. There is nothing here, and the small shelter above a few benches leaks, so most of the benches are wet. But what else do I see? A f*cking bus! No, not just a bus, but two buses. They do have a bus route to the train station - they just don't run via downtown for tourists and their luggage! Getting crankier by the minute now.
I find out I have to buy the ticket on the train and while chatting with the girl who tells me this, she points out that she was disappointed with the $15 tour trolley ride as they only talk about the history of Salem and nothing about the witch trials etc. THEN, she says it is no wonder as they witch trials didn't even happen here, it was in the next town of Danvers, and the spot is just behind the local Target store there. Of course, the minute she says that, I remember reading the exact same info about it being Danvers and not Salem.
What a rort the city of Salem is pulling on tourists.
The best bit about Salem was getting on that train, paying $5.50 to get back to Boston in 30 minutes, and sitting back and enjoying the free wifi that worked better onboard than in the $105 motel room.
Even the houses don't want to be seen in Salem.
... while others just take the piss.
On the 2pm ferry now from Boston to Salem and I still haven't eaten. The ferry fare is $11.50 one way ($19 return) for the ticket with free wifi and a tourist guide presentation on board. Sunferries has a lot to learn ...
It takes one hour and it is motoring along. I am trying to hunt and gather accommodation online but have given up on that as the sunshine on the screen makes it impossible to read anything and I am missing out on enjoying the ride. Will wait till I get there and make a call or two.
After I get off the internet I start chatting with a woman who lives in Salem. After I mention I was on the internet looking for accommodation, she says she would offer to have me as a guest, except she has her sister and brother-in-law visiting from interstate. By the time we dock in Salem, she offers me dinner the next night as she is having a dinner party and gives me a lift to the info centre downtown.
And that's just about the end of the good part of Salem.
ACCOMMODATION
Onwards to the tourist info centre (passing a multitude of lame witch shops etc - no, not shops for lame witches, just shops full of crap) to source some accommodation and maybe find some midsummer action. Made a phone call to the Clipper Ship Inn as a guide book said was the cheapest place in town and they quoted $90 plus tax for a night. So headed off to a cafe for food and free wifi to hunt and gather a bit more thoroughly before booking there.
All I can say is what a joke Salem accommodation is. Not only do they cost their rooms according to seasonal demands, but quite often they don't even put in a price for those seasonal fluctuations. Seems the pricing method is to pluck a figure out of the air and see if the sucker is prepared to pay it.
So, rang the Clipper Ship Inn back (not even two hours later) to book a room and am told it is now $95 for a single, five bucks dearer. With taxes that went up to $105.
Had little choice, so booked it and walked the mile or so to the Inn and by now it is 6.30pm. I query them about their pricing structure and why the price jumped $5 in two hours and they try to defend it by saying the other room was no longer available. When I query why the price would change for a "different" room she then puts it down to being seasonal changes. I point out that other Salem motels can put in some guide to the different seasonal prices on their websites. She doesn't have an answer, and when I say I am a freelance journo who will be doing an article about my stay in Salem and would like pricing info to include in my article, she nearly falls over herself trying to finally be polite and helpful - but still doesn't provide pricing info. The main reason for that is that they must pluck the figures out of their arse.
Anyhoo, after I get back to my room at 9.30pm after going walkabouts in Salem, I try to connect to the wifi. No luck. After 15 minutes of frustration, I ring the desk to find out what is going on. She says that everybody else can get it, so she doesn't know why I can't. She says she doesn't know much about the wifi system.
Then when I ring back again to say it still isn't even showing up as an option on my computer, she says to try it outside where the signal is stronger and that others have had to do that when it doesn't penetrate the walls.
So hold on, first she says no-one else has a problem, and then she says others have had to go outside ... which is it? I'm going with the obvious answer that they know wifi is NOT getting through to the rooms yet are still promoting rooms with wifi.
After an hour of frustration of walking outside on the balcony to get a connection, then inside to use it for a minute before it drops out, then outside, inside etc I spit the dummy and put my chair outside and sit out there in my pyjamas with the laptop. Still very slow and dropping in and out. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr
Finally go to bed after the reception office has long closed, after hours of mucking about with the wifi for little gain.
And AAAAAAAAAAAAARGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH - dirty sheets! They are obviously rumpled from previous use and don't feel or smell clean, a squashed moth is in there, and horrors of horrors - a small smudged spot of blood where someone has had a sore or pimple etc drop a speck of blood and smeared it as they rolled over or whatever.
What to do? No-one is at reception as it is 1am. So all I can do is rip the pillow cases off and turn the sheets the other way down so I can sleep and tell the office in the morning. Their response? They give me a $3 value card for donuts to make up for all that ... and it didn't even have a credit on it when I redeem it across the road. However, the Dunkin Donut shop said that may be their error and they refunded the $5 I spent on coffee and bacon and cheese breakfast bagel.
After I get online, I read reviews of similar horror stories there. Never stay at the Clipper Ship Inn, and don't bother going to Salem either.
MIDSUMMER IN WITCH CENTRAL
I can't believe my eyes as I walk through the heart of downtown Salem at 3pm after getting off the ferry. It is the northern summer solstice, the Litha sabbat, and here in Witch Central there is nothing happening apart from a token effort at having a few (three) stalls in the mall and they might be there every day for all I know. And really, it is a good thing they didn't bother much more than that as there are only about ten people who look like tourists and maybe five people who look like residents wandering around.
Nothing is planned or promoted for what should be a major sabbat on a witch calendar in a town that markets itself on witches etc because of the Salem witch trials.
I should have got the hint about this place and what they think about tourists when I encounter the first set of traffic lights and the bird call they use to indicate it is safe to cross the road is - wait for it - "Cuckoo, cuckoo". Subtle, eh?
After I check in to my room I shower and head straight back out to be somewhere to mark the setting sun on Solstice and hopefully stumble across some unannounced midsummer happening. Nothing. Nada. Zip. Way to go Salem!
Had a nice walk through the graveyard ...
... and the witch memorial at dusk ...
... and surprisingly, I couldn't take many photos with natural light - or lack there of.
They all turned out much lighter and brighter than I wanted. That is the only spooky thing that happened and even then I think it has something to do with the street lighting and my camera ...
And there is no more to tell about Midsummer in Salem.
TOURISTS, STAY HOME
So, now it is the next morning and after checking out at 11am, I am now dragging my cranky arse back into downtown Salem to put my luggage in a locker and have a look around before getting the hell out of there in the arvie. I'm hoping that at least the town in general is worth the effort and cost to get there.
First place I walk endlessly to is the Railway Station to find a locker. That was my first mistake. From what I can see looking down the huge flight of steps that I'm not lugging my case down without first doing a visual reconnaissance, is that there is no station. Just a platform. Not even a ticket machine. Nada, zip, zero facilities. F*ck all! (Take note of the bus in at the bottom of the stairs)
I backtrack into the downtown visitor centre and does this great ediface to tourism have lockers? You bet your booties they don't!
She suggests I try the museum across the road and/or the hotel on the corner. Immediately I'm thinking I don't like my chances at either as I am not a paying guest at the hotel and I don't have time to check out the museum fully for the $15 entry fee they are asking. But, I think it IS a small town, so maybe there is an understanding about providing facilities to tourists. What the f*ck was I thinking? Of course, when I ask each esteemed establishment all I get are two doses of disdain.
Now I am furious! I drag my even crankier arse back to the tourist info centre and "politely" ask her what facilities exactly does this purely tourist destination place provide for tourists? The chickibabe says most tourists book into a hotel and don't need a locker. I feel like she deems me to be a freeloading interloper in this ville ... well that is the red flag!
My voice gets shrill. My eyes narrow. I try to not vent my spleen on her and "calmly" explain that, well yes, I had actually spent money on accommodation in this hicksville place and after sleeping on overpriced dirty sheets I decided to not spend another night here, and I checked out of that fine establishment this morning and am now trying to find somewhere to stow by bags to look around the place a bit better and buy some lunch, BUT now, after there being no lockers and the attitude I have encountered, I will not be staying one minute more or spending a f*cking penny more in this God forsaken town.
Then I ask her about local buses to the train station because it is raining. Her response? It is less than a mile's walk to the station so Salem doesn't need to have a bus service in the downtown area. Tourists can pay $15 for the tour trolley if they need to get around downtown ...
I leave before I hit the bitch.
So, now, I am trudging in the rain, swearing and cursing like crazy under my breath, heading for the train station again. I lug my baggage down the zillion steps and my visual recce before was correct. There is nothing here, and the small shelter above a few benches leaks, so most of the benches are wet. But what else do I see? A f*cking bus! No, not just a bus, but two buses. They do have a bus route to the train station - they just don't run via downtown for tourists and their luggage! Getting crankier by the minute now.
I find out I have to buy the ticket on the train and while chatting with the girl who tells me this, she points out that she was disappointed with the $15 tour trolley ride as they only talk about the history of Salem and nothing about the witch trials etc. THEN, she says it is no wonder as they witch trials didn't even happen here, it was in the next town of Danvers, and the spot is just behind the local Target store there. Of course, the minute she says that, I remember reading the exact same info about it being Danvers and not Salem.
What a rort the city of Salem is pulling on tourists.
The best bit about Salem was getting on that train, paying $5.50 to get back to Boston in 30 minutes, and sitting back and enjoying the free wifi that worked better onboard than in the $105 motel room.
Even the houses don't want to be seen in Salem.
... while others just take the piss.
Monday, 20 June 2011
Boston
Well, my run of good weather finally came to an end. Since arriving on 18 May the weather has been gorgeous with me only being caught out in one spot of rain for an hour in Calgary, Canada, a few weeks ago. But yesterday, in Boston, Massachusetts (USA) it started raining and hasn't stopped. It isn't cold or windy, just a constant drizzle with occasional heavy showers.
Right now, I'm on the bus again with wifi and power so will see how much I can get done in the two hours until I land in White River Junction, Vermont.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Off the bus and straight onto the metro system to get to a host's house in the 'burbs. Less than $2 to get there and it is probably even another town, rather than part of Boston. I think it is further than Townsville to my suburb, Alligator Creek , which has NO public transport to speak of. Townsville City Council are you listening on how to operate a public transport system?
FREEDOM TRAIL
Anyhoo, Boston a lovely city and the best way to get an overall view of it is to walk the downtown Freedom Trail, the path of Paul Revere's ride. The trail is marked throughout the city with either a red painted line on the pavement or red bricks embedded in the pavement. There are a lot of free guides at the tourist info centres and the guides outline the background info about each major site along the route.
Of course, you can always pay to go on a walking tour with a dude in costume, which is probably more entertaining and would provide more info along the way. One tour is even offered on Segways, those compact electric people movers on two wheels, with everyone wired up to hear the dude's commentary and communicate with each other along the way without having to yell.
But I like the freedom of being able to divert or linger along the way. It is a long trail and I stopped many times and actually didn't get to the very end of the trail. I planned to finish the trail yesterday but it was wet and rainy and I couldn't be bothered.
For lunch I have a lobster roll (with plenty of meat), coleslow, chips, and a big glass of sangria for $15 (plus tax and tips). It is in a lovely old pub and I sit in an overhanging balcony and listen to a table of Jewish and Italian jewellers loudly discussing their trade. Very entertaining.
WHARVES AND DOCKS
After I drop off the Freedom Trail I wander back to Boston via the wharves and see a zillion, billion jellyfish. They are all the same type and have four glow-in-the-dark circles on their underside. Don't know if they are harmless or not and forget to ask about them.
The wharves have been done over and are now expensive condominiums with glorious views and access to everything. While here I check out the ferry schedules to Salem and buy my ticket and then have a glass of wine at the small but busy wine bar on Long Dock before making my way back to the Servas host.
MOVING ON AND FREE FERRIES
After dinner a friend of my host turns up and we sit up until sunrise drinking wine and chatting on the verandah. Actually, this friend was a very attractive Russian man named Sacha - my God! What was I thinking? Why didn't I jump his bones? Haaaaaaaa aaahhhhhhh ... What a night - what a waste ... Although he did introduce me to the comedy and commentary of George Carlin and for that I thank him. But in hindsight, I wish I could thank him for a little bit more - and that Russian accent - oo la la.
So now, for what ever reason, this song reminds me of Boston and the wharves.
Dropkick Murphys - I'm shipping up to Boston
So, now the next morning, I'm feeling very tired and queasy and don't want to get out of bed.
But get up I did as I have bought a ticket on the 2pm ferry. When I get to the docks, Boston has a free ferry day to the other Boston islands. Seems it is a philanthropic gesture to encourage people to enjoy and investigate the islands. Wish I knew beforehand as I might have changed my plans to take advantage of it ... and after going to Salem I wish I had made better use of my time and money.
Right now, I'm on the bus again with wifi and power so will see how much I can get done in the two hours until I land in White River Junction, Vermont.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Off the bus and straight onto the metro system to get to a host's house in the 'burbs. Less than $2 to get there and it is probably even another town, rather than part of Boston. I think it is further than Townsville to my suburb, Alligator Creek , which has NO public transport to speak of. Townsville City Council are you listening on how to operate a public transport system?
FREEDOM TRAIL
Anyhoo, Boston a lovely city and the best way to get an overall view of it is to walk the downtown Freedom Trail, the path of Paul Revere's ride. The trail is marked throughout the city with either a red painted line on the pavement or red bricks embedded in the pavement. There are a lot of free guides at the tourist info centres and the guides outline the background info about each major site along the route.
Of course, you can always pay to go on a walking tour with a dude in costume, which is probably more entertaining and would provide more info along the way. One tour is even offered on Segways, those compact electric people movers on two wheels, with everyone wired up to hear the dude's commentary and communicate with each other along the way without having to yell.
But I like the freedom of being able to divert or linger along the way. It is a long trail and I stopped many times and actually didn't get to the very end of the trail. I planned to finish the trail yesterday but it was wet and rainy and I couldn't be bothered.
For lunch I have a lobster roll (with plenty of meat), coleslow, chips, and a big glass of sangria for $15 (plus tax and tips). It is in a lovely old pub and I sit in an overhanging balcony and listen to a table of Jewish and Italian jewellers loudly discussing their trade. Very entertaining.
WHARVES AND DOCKS
After I drop off the Freedom Trail I wander back to Boston via the wharves and see a zillion, billion jellyfish. They are all the same type and have four glow-in-the-dark circles on their underside. Don't know if they are harmless or not and forget to ask about them.
The wharves have been done over and are now expensive condominiums with glorious views and access to everything. While here I check out the ferry schedules to Salem and buy my ticket and then have a glass of wine at the small but busy wine bar on Long Dock before making my way back to the Servas host.
MOVING ON AND FREE FERRIES
After dinner a friend of my host turns up and we sit up until sunrise drinking wine and chatting on the verandah. Actually, this friend was a very attractive Russian man named Sacha - my God! What was I thinking? Why didn't I jump his bones? Haaaaaaaa aaahhhhhhh ... What a night - what a waste ... Although he did introduce me to the comedy and commentary of George Carlin and for that I thank him. But in hindsight, I wish I could thank him for a little bit more - and that Russian accent - oo la la.
So now, for what ever reason, this song reminds me of Boston and the wharves.
Dropkick Murphys - I'm shipping up to Boston
So, now the next morning, I'm feeling very tired and queasy and don't want to get out of bed.
But get up I did as I have bought a ticket on the 2pm ferry. When I get to the docks, Boston has a free ferry day to the other Boston islands. Seems it is a philanthropic gesture to encourage people to enjoy and investigate the islands. Wish I knew beforehand as I might have changed my plans to take advantage of it ... and after going to Salem I wish I had made better use of my time and money.
Sunday, 19 June 2011
On to Boston
How good is this? On the bus now for 10 hours from Rochester (New York State) to Boston (Massachusetts) and it has wifi AND power outlets at each seat. I'll be able to catch up on some blogs and upload piccies while travelling.
And ... I know I said I wouldn't do a bus journey longer than five hours ... but this is definitely the last long-ish haul trip.
And ... I know I said I wouldn't do a bus journey longer than five hours ... but this is definitely the last long-ish haul trip.
Saturday, 18 June 2011
Rochester
ROCHESTER
While here I am staying with Servas hosts and I spend Saturday with the female host as the male left on an epic month long bike journey at 7am.
Rochester is a mixed bag of a town. Some blocks are ugly and deserted while others are simply gorgeous. Seems the town is in decline after a number of major companies moved their head offices out of town. Houses are cheap and in the area I stayed in the houses are worth about $90,000 or less. And that is the typical four story building in average condition. There is a basement, two floors of living space, and an attic. No fences in between properties, but nothing to stop one being put up. Yards are quite small, but enough to make it easy to maintain and enjoy.
GEORGE EASTMAN
A lot of the town revolves around the legacy of George Eastman, founder of Kodak. He was a bachelor with squillions of dollars; probably gay - that's my guess; and spent $100 million or more on community projects and other philanthropic projects before he died by his own hand at 77 years of age. His suicide note read: "My work is done. Why wait?"
His mansion was completed in 1905 and it is amazing as he was a total control freak and a gadget geek. He even had his own power plant so he could have electricity all the time in his house. Here is the link for the website about him, the photography museum, and his house.
After a guided tour of the house, my host and I enjoy a picnic lunch in the lovely gardens. Again, the weather is perfect and I really think the universe has forgotten about me for a few days in order for things to be just right.
FIBRE ART EXHIBITION
Again, the universe has lost track of me and I luck upon a major fibre art exhibition being displayed in Rochester, as one of only three destinations on its USA tour. Just about everywhere else I have been to the galleries and craft precincts have been closed on the day I am in town.
What can I say - fantastic, glorious, beautiful, creative - just an excellent exhibition. Two Australians, one male and one female, have works on display but I don't recognise their names.
I particularly enjoy the work of one artist who hails from Wales, so I am hoping to hunt her down while I am there and buy a small work direct.
But even though I am boggled by the exhibition, it is a work in the permanent collection that really blows my mind.
An artist has arranged over 4000 reels of cotton, one reel deep, but about two metres wide by 2.5 metres high on a wall. At first glance it is just a very beautiful abstract work with exceptional colour usage. BUT, after reading the info, I find out I have to stand on an indicated mark on the floor and view it through a small sphere of about four centimetres in diameter.
I am amazed that this abstract colour array becomes a detailed image of Grant Wood's famous painting, American Gothic. The artist has scanned in an image of the painting, turned it upside-down, then pixelated it and used that as a guide to the placement of the different coloured reels of cotton. The sphere turns the image right way up and the brain fills in the detail. Absolutely mind blowing.
The gallery gift shop had some very accomplished works on sale by local artists. If I had more money and didn't have to lug my purchases around for the next two months I could have gone on a major spending spree.
GENESEE HIGH FALLS
Rochester has its own waterfall in the heart of town, and it actually isn't that much smaller than the first part of Niagara Falls. Unfortunately it is located in an underdeveloped part of the town, but an attempt is being made to make it more tourist and resident friendly. More info here.
ERIE CANAL
Passing through Rochester is New York State's Erie Canal. I had no clue that there was a canal system in the USA! Would have made a point of looking into it more while I am here. On the bus leaving Rochester I have passed a few sections of it but not enough warning to snap a piccie.
While here I am staying with Servas hosts and I spend Saturday with the female host as the male left on an epic month long bike journey at 7am.
Rochester is a mixed bag of a town. Some blocks are ugly and deserted while others are simply gorgeous. Seems the town is in decline after a number of major companies moved their head offices out of town. Houses are cheap and in the area I stayed in the houses are worth about $90,000 or less. And that is the typical four story building in average condition. There is a basement, two floors of living space, and an attic. No fences in between properties, but nothing to stop one being put up. Yards are quite small, but enough to make it easy to maintain and enjoy.
GEORGE EASTMAN
A lot of the town revolves around the legacy of George Eastman, founder of Kodak. He was a bachelor with squillions of dollars; probably gay - that's my guess; and spent $100 million or more on community projects and other philanthropic projects before he died by his own hand at 77 years of age. His suicide note read: "My work is done. Why wait?"
His mansion was completed in 1905 and it is amazing as he was a total control freak and a gadget geek. He even had his own power plant so he could have electricity all the time in his house. Here is the link for the website about him, the photography museum, and his house.
After a guided tour of the house, my host and I enjoy a picnic lunch in the lovely gardens. Again, the weather is perfect and I really think the universe has forgotten about me for a few days in order for things to be just right.
FIBRE ART EXHIBITION
Again, the universe has lost track of me and I luck upon a major fibre art exhibition being displayed in Rochester, as one of only three destinations on its USA tour. Just about everywhere else I have been to the galleries and craft precincts have been closed on the day I am in town.
What can I say - fantastic, glorious, beautiful, creative - just an excellent exhibition. Two Australians, one male and one female, have works on display but I don't recognise their names.
I particularly enjoy the work of one artist who hails from Wales, so I am hoping to hunt her down while I am there and buy a small work direct.
But even though I am boggled by the exhibition, it is a work in the permanent collection that really blows my mind.
An artist has arranged over 4000 reels of cotton, one reel deep, but about two metres wide by 2.5 metres high on a wall. At first glance it is just a very beautiful abstract work with exceptional colour usage. BUT, after reading the info, I find out I have to stand on an indicated mark on the floor and view it through a small sphere of about four centimetres in diameter.
I am amazed that this abstract colour array becomes a detailed image of Grant Wood's famous painting, American Gothic. The artist has scanned in an image of the painting, turned it upside-down, then pixelated it and used that as a guide to the placement of the different coloured reels of cotton. The sphere turns the image right way up and the brain fills in the detail. Absolutely mind blowing.
The gallery gift shop had some very accomplished works on sale by local artists. If I had more money and didn't have to lug my purchases around for the next two months I could have gone on a major spending spree.
GENESEE HIGH FALLS
Rochester has its own waterfall in the heart of town, and it actually isn't that much smaller than the first part of Niagara Falls. Unfortunately it is located in an underdeveloped part of the town, but an attempt is being made to make it more tourist and resident friendly. More info here.
ERIE CANAL
Passing through Rochester is New York State's Erie Canal. I had no clue that there was a canal system in the USA! Would have made a point of looking into it more while I am here. On the bus leaving Rochester I have passed a few sections of it but not enough warning to snap a piccie.
Query about the blog
Hi all, here's a thought I need feedback on before I go ahead and do it.
I'm thinking that it would be better to keep the blog essentially about my trials and tribulations and personal views etc of my journey. And put info about each destination on a separate page that I just created called, "Destinations".
Then those who are interested mainly about the places I go to can specifically read about that without having to read my other waffle that may not interest them. And vice versa for those who are more interested in reading about my daily happenings rather than the actual places.
And of course everything is only a click away if you want to read both.
Any thoughts?
I'm thinking that it would be better to keep the blog essentially about my trials and tribulations and personal views etc of my journey. And put info about each destination on a separate page that I just created called, "Destinations".
Then those who are interested mainly about the places I go to can specifically read about that without having to read my other waffle that may not interest them. And vice versa for those who are more interested in reading about my daily happenings rather than the actual places.
And of course everything is only a click away if you want to read both.
Any thoughts?
Friday, 17 June 2011
Points east from Toronto
Followers of my blog are going to be surprised about this, but nothing untoward happened on this recent leg and I had a very enjoyable few days. I know, I don't know what has gone wrong in the universe either.
BUS TO ROCHESTER
Leaving Toronto behind, the packed bus is very quickly heading east. I am a bit disappointed to be squashed in like sardines but luckily it is only a quick journey.
The girl sitting next to me is from Niagara Falls and is going home for the weekend. Her father is a manager of one of the many wineries in this area and I am passing quite a few nice looking places on the way. (Anthony and Moira - really recommend this area for a wine tour, along with the wine area in and east of Cambria, California - south of the more well know Napa and Sonoma wine region.) When I confess to the girl that I have allowed only two hours to see the Falls, she tells me that, honestly, that is enough time and she doesn't understand the hype.
NIAGARA FALLS
Arrive 30 minutes late at Niagara Falls as the 12noon bus left late and didn't make up the time. So now instead of having two hours to see the falls, I have less than 90 minutes. I pay $2 for a locker and stash my luggage, go to the ladies, confirm departure time of 3.25pm and check out the shuttle bus to the falls. They are not frequent enough for my liking so I start walking at 2.05pm.
Again, the locals have a sense of humour and tell me it will only take 20 minutes to walk there from the Greyhound depot. Walking quickly it took 30 minutes to get within good enough piccie distance, let alone good viewing distance. So allowing for the walk back and time to reclaim luggage and get organised etc before boarding bus, I had exactly one minute to snap piccies without enjoying the destination (like the busloads of Japanese tourists in Cairns) and start walking back.
From what I do see, the falls are a lot smaller than I envisaged - both areas only about a 30 metre drop and the first fall is not much wider. I didn't get close enough to the main horseshoe shape fall to get a good idea of the width, so I can't really comment on that other than it sure looks bigger in all the movies ...
This photo is taken through a supporting arch of the bridge we cross to leave Canada and enter the USA. That tower structure on the left is a viewing tower and there are people on it so you can get an idea of scale.
Lots of tourist take the Maid of the Mist tour boat to get in close at the bottom of the falls. Even if I have the time, I don't think I would do that. My host in Rochester tells me that a much better thing to do is a day trip to the lake behind the falls which includes a hike into the valley etc and you often see local trout or salmon (?) fishers in the fast flowing waters. And she says there are much more spectacular falls in the nearby Finger Lakes. (Hey Chris, she says it is a fantasic bike riding region as they are avid bike riders. And her 64 year old husband actually departed for a month long bike journey the morning after I arrived).
Anyhoo, walking there and back I have the river on one side with a sheer drop of about 30 metres - but with a very sturdy walking path and solid metre high wall.
On the other side of the road are zillions of very quaint B&Bs and some motels. Closer to the falls, you get into the more upmarket hotels, a casino and all associated tourism facilities.
Heading back to the bus, panic about missing it can do wonderful things, so I must have really hoofed it back or broke through the fabric of time. But I had time to snap this piccie that gave me a happy moment. My other time worry was that I hadn't taken much notice of the landmarks I passed to get there and I had to allow for 'being lost' time. So I get back to the depot at 3pm and then the bus was late arriving so I had 45 minutes I could have used to get a better look at the falls. But I guarantee that if I had lingered it would have taken 30 minutes to walk back and the bus would be dead on time.
CUSTOMS
Back on the bus and after five minutes we are going over the bridge where I get a much better view of the falls - very brief and would miss it if I blink.
Straight after the bridge we are at the border and have to go through Customs to get back into the USA. I am really getting annoyed with myself that I keep forgetting about buying duty free stuff before a border crossing. So far I have crossed into USA, Canada, USA (Alaskan cruise), Canada, and now the USA again and missed every opportunity to buy a litre of Disaronna for about $20. Damn!
Not long after getting through customs we arrive in Buffalo in the United States of America where we have a short stop and a bus change.
WILDLIFE
Afer all of those days on the bus last week with little sightings of wildlife, I can't believe my luck on the few hours from Buffalo to Rochester.
I saw:
> A pair of foxes (ok, they may not be native, but they count as wildlife)
> A couple of deer and their fawns
> Three further individual sightings of deer
> And a blobby head and shoulders of an animal I am later told is probably a ground hog.
Then, once I arrive in Rochester, I see:
> Many squirrels
> A chipmunk
When I see the squirrel and comment to my host how exciting it is to see one, she makes similar comments about them that I make about scrub turkeys. She has only just dared to take off the cover from her strawberry plants to pick some as the squirrels always raid them before she gets to eat them.
BUS TO ROCHESTER
Leaving Toronto behind, the packed bus is very quickly heading east. I am a bit disappointed to be squashed in like sardines but luckily it is only a quick journey.
The girl sitting next to me is from Niagara Falls and is going home for the weekend. Her father is a manager of one of the many wineries in this area and I am passing quite a few nice looking places on the way. (Anthony and Moira - really recommend this area for a wine tour, along with the wine area in and east of Cambria, California - south of the more well know Napa and Sonoma wine region.) When I confess to the girl that I have allowed only two hours to see the Falls, she tells me that, honestly, that is enough time and she doesn't understand the hype.
NIAGARA FALLS
Arrive 30 minutes late at Niagara Falls as the 12noon bus left late and didn't make up the time. So now instead of having two hours to see the falls, I have less than 90 minutes. I pay $2 for a locker and stash my luggage, go to the ladies, confirm departure time of 3.25pm and check out the shuttle bus to the falls. They are not frequent enough for my liking so I start walking at 2.05pm.
Again, the locals have a sense of humour and tell me it will only take 20 minutes to walk there from the Greyhound depot. Walking quickly it took 30 minutes to get within good enough piccie distance, let alone good viewing distance. So allowing for the walk back and time to reclaim luggage and get organised etc before boarding bus, I had exactly one minute to snap piccies without enjoying the destination (like the busloads of Japanese tourists in Cairns) and start walking back.
From what I do see, the falls are a lot smaller than I envisaged - both areas only about a 30 metre drop and the first fall is not much wider. I didn't get close enough to the main horseshoe shape fall to get a good idea of the width, so I can't really comment on that other than it sure looks bigger in all the movies ...
This photo is taken through a supporting arch of the bridge we cross to leave Canada and enter the USA. That tower structure on the left is a viewing tower and there are people on it so you can get an idea of scale.
Lots of tourist take the Maid of the Mist tour boat to get in close at the bottom of the falls. Even if I have the time, I don't think I would do that. My host in Rochester tells me that a much better thing to do is a day trip to the lake behind the falls which includes a hike into the valley etc and you often see local trout or salmon (?) fishers in the fast flowing waters. And she says there are much more spectacular falls in the nearby Finger Lakes. (Hey Chris, she says it is a fantasic bike riding region as they are avid bike riders. And her 64 year old husband actually departed for a month long bike journey the morning after I arrived).
Anyhoo, walking there and back I have the river on one side with a sheer drop of about 30 metres - but with a very sturdy walking path and solid metre high wall.
On the other side of the road are zillions of very quaint B&Bs and some motels. Closer to the falls, you get into the more upmarket hotels, a casino and all associated tourism facilities.
Heading back to the bus, panic about missing it can do wonderful things, so I must have really hoofed it back or broke through the fabric of time. But I had time to snap this piccie that gave me a happy moment. My other time worry was that I hadn't taken much notice of the landmarks I passed to get there and I had to allow for 'being lost' time. So I get back to the depot at 3pm and then the bus was late arriving so I had 45 minutes I could have used to get a better look at the falls. But I guarantee that if I had lingered it would have taken 30 minutes to walk back and the bus would be dead on time.
CUSTOMS
Back on the bus and after five minutes we are going over the bridge where I get a much better view of the falls - very brief and would miss it if I blink.
Straight after the bridge we are at the border and have to go through Customs to get back into the USA. I am really getting annoyed with myself that I keep forgetting about buying duty free stuff before a border crossing. So far I have crossed into USA, Canada, USA (Alaskan cruise), Canada, and now the USA again and missed every opportunity to buy a litre of Disaronna for about $20. Damn!
Not long after getting through customs we arrive in Buffalo in the United States of America where we have a short stop and a bus change.
WILDLIFE
Afer all of those days on the bus last week with little sightings of wildlife, I can't believe my luck on the few hours from Buffalo to Rochester.
I saw:
> A pair of foxes (ok, they may not be native, but they count as wildlife)
> A couple of deer and their fawns
> Three further individual sightings of deer
> And a blobby head and shoulders of an animal I am later told is probably a ground hog.
Then, once I arrive in Rochester, I see:
> Many squirrels
> A chipmunk
When I see the squirrel and comment to my host how exciting it is to see one, she makes similar comments about them that I make about scrub turkeys. She has only just dared to take off the cover from her strawberry plants to pick some as the squirrels always raid them before she gets to eat them.
Canadian bus journey
Home, home on the range … where the deer and the antelope play … because they have more sense to stay and play, rather than catching a Greyhound bus across the Canadian prairies.
Can someone please tell me: “What the f*ck was I thinking when I thought it was a good idea to buy a 30 day bus pass for Canada and USA travel?”
Well, I know I want to see the vast scenery - but there are limits.
OK, it is a good idea in the Rockies and British Columbia and some of Alberta where the scenery is superb and it is a windy, mountainous journey I would think twice about driving through myself. Now, that is a good plan.
The rest of Alberta and Saskatchewan are a dead loss of acres and acres of softly undulating wheat farms and the odd oil rig.
Manitoba and Ontario start to get interesting again with lots of pines trees and lakes, but is still quite flat.
Thinking I will dip out of Canada at Calgary and then Greyhound it to Chicago USA to avoid the prairies sounds like a good plan. Unfortunately, Greyhound has other ideas about that.
So as a consequence, spending over 55 hours on a bus to get from Calgary to Toronto, the only exit point in Canada other than Vancouver, really sucks.
I will never travel more than say five hours on a bus … ever, ever again.
I must have been OUT - OF - MY - MIND to do this. An hour of seeing the Canadian prairies and farming lands is enough – not 30 hours or so in that region.
I will be writing (and trying to flog) a travel article about bussing it across Canada called “Greyhound training” as I have picked up quite a few strategies to try to make the journey less unpleasant – if that is possible. So, can’t write too much here until after it gets published in order to be providing unpublished content.
WILDLIFE
And for all of that continuous 55 hours of bus journey, I saw:
> Millions of cows
> An antelope – one stinking lousy antelope
> A wolf or coyote – well, actually I didn’t see it, but the bus had to brake to avoid it before it slunk off into the night …
> An elk – same as above situation …
> A mosquito carrying off a man.
I didn’t even see a stinking prairie gopher at any of the stops and they are a pest in Canada.
SECURITY
Some Greyhound stops are more thorough than others about security. They want to make sure you don't have any fun by taking alcohol on board - and in the case of Winnipeg they go over you with a metal detector to make sure you don't have any weapons. Evidently a few years ago some dude decapitated some poor passenger with a sword - no joke!
Just found a link about this: Bus Beheading
TORONTO
Arrived in Toronto last night at 7pm as the bus was running late.
Heading out at 8.30pm to find food and wine. By the time I found a bottle shop it was closed (9pm) so then my only option was to buy some food where they sold wine. Had a great pesto chicken meal and chips and two glasses of wine. Blew my budget but didn't care - a girl can only go so many days eating fast food and snack foods and no alcohol.
Heading out in two hours to go to Niagara Falls for two hours and then on to Rochester, New York State. YAY! Out of Canada.
COMPUTER PROBLEMS
My laptop is really having heart attacks and couldn't get it to work last night at all. Been doing all sorts of things to get it going quite a lot, but last night it just wouldn't fire up. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr and I think the warranty expires this month while I am travelling and don't have any documentation to present to anyone to get it looked at.
PS I miss my cats even more (is that possible?) after talking to a kindly old 76 year old woman who sat next to me for one leg of the journey and was looking forward to seeing her cat after only being away for a few days. It seems quite a few years ago this Siamese turned up in her yard and refused to leave. For half a year she didn’t feed or encourage it, and only condescended to provide a cardboard box for it during the winter snows. And still it remained in her yard. So after that winter she allowed it inside and it has been a faithful companion ever since.
Can someone please tell me: “What the f*ck was I thinking when I thought it was a good idea to buy a 30 day bus pass for Canada and USA travel?”
Well, I know I want to see the vast scenery - but there are limits.
OK, it is a good idea in the Rockies and British Columbia and some of Alberta where the scenery is superb and it is a windy, mountainous journey I would think twice about driving through myself. Now, that is a good plan.
The rest of Alberta and Saskatchewan are a dead loss of acres and acres of softly undulating wheat farms and the odd oil rig.
Manitoba and Ontario start to get interesting again with lots of pines trees and lakes, but is still quite flat.
Thinking I will dip out of Canada at Calgary and then Greyhound it to Chicago USA to avoid the prairies sounds like a good plan. Unfortunately, Greyhound has other ideas about that.
So as a consequence, spending over 55 hours on a bus to get from Calgary to Toronto, the only exit point in Canada other than Vancouver, really sucks.
I will never travel more than say five hours on a bus … ever, ever again.
I must have been OUT - OF - MY - MIND to do this. An hour of seeing the Canadian prairies and farming lands is enough – not 30 hours or so in that region.
I will be writing (and trying to flog) a travel article about bussing it across Canada called “Greyhound training” as I have picked up quite a few strategies to try to make the journey less unpleasant – if that is possible. So, can’t write too much here until after it gets published in order to be providing unpublished content.
WILDLIFE
And for all of that continuous 55 hours of bus journey, I saw:
> Millions of cows
> An antelope – one stinking lousy antelope
> A wolf or coyote – well, actually I didn’t see it, but the bus had to brake to avoid it before it slunk off into the night …
> An elk – same as above situation …
> A mosquito carrying off a man.
I didn’t even see a stinking prairie gopher at any of the stops and they are a pest in Canada.
SECURITY
Some Greyhound stops are more thorough than others about security. They want to make sure you don't have any fun by taking alcohol on board - and in the case of Winnipeg they go over you with a metal detector to make sure you don't have any weapons. Evidently a few years ago some dude decapitated some poor passenger with a sword - no joke!
Just found a link about this: Bus Beheading
TORONTO
Arrived in Toronto last night at 7pm as the bus was running late.
Heading out at 8.30pm to find food and wine. By the time I found a bottle shop it was closed (9pm) so then my only option was to buy some food where they sold wine. Had a great pesto chicken meal and chips and two glasses of wine. Blew my budget but didn't care - a girl can only go so many days eating fast food and snack foods and no alcohol.
Heading out in two hours to go to Niagara Falls for two hours and then on to Rochester, New York State. YAY! Out of Canada.
COMPUTER PROBLEMS
My laptop is really having heart attacks and couldn't get it to work last night at all. Been doing all sorts of things to get it going quite a lot, but last night it just wouldn't fire up. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr and I think the warranty expires this month while I am travelling and don't have any documentation to present to anyone to get it looked at.
PS I miss my cats even more (is that possible?) after talking to a kindly old 76 year old woman who sat next to me for one leg of the journey and was looking forward to seeing her cat after only being away for a few days. It seems quite a few years ago this Siamese turned up in her yard and refused to leave. For half a year she didn’t feed or encourage it, and only condescended to provide a cardboard box for it during the winter snows. And still it remained in her yard. So after that winter she allowed it inside and it has been a faithful companion ever since.
Tuesday, 14 June 2011
Long bus ride ahead ...
Leaving Calgary in the morning for the east coast of USA - three days on a bus. So no communications for a while.
Friday, 10 June 2011
Majestic overload after Plopsville
Kamloops - Kampoops more like it. Not very impressed with this town … reminds me of Clownsville. Spread out, dry and tired looking, quite hot and quite boring. The main street, Victoria St is pretty – but that’s all there is folks!
I think this town is the retirement centre of Canada. Every second shop is a walking aid or mobilised machine store. And every second person needs one. There really isn’t much else to say … except I also noticed quite a few blind people and there must be significant numbers of them here as the traffic walk signals even make an announcement that it is now ok to cross such and such a street. Forget the tweety bird noises. And there is about ten golf courses in a town of about 85,000. That alone seals it as being a retirement destination ...
Anyhoo, I am even less impressed with Kamplops after trying to leave this morning and I have now learnt yet another travelling (or even a life) lesson: When someone tells you that the buses run “regularly” make sure you ask them to define the term “regularly”.
After being in towns and cities where “regularly” meant every five or ten minutes, it isn’t a good thing to assume this same regularity. Not even when you allow nearly an hour and a half on local transport to get to the Greyhound bus depot – which isn’t even 15 minutes by car.
And it doesn’t help that when asking your knowledgeable local person (who initially assured me they were regular) about how long it takes to walk to the bus stop from their house and other questions about the “regular” bus service, she finally says, “I really don’t know anything about it as I have never caught one”… They really were lovely people otherwise, so I shouldn't be too harsh about it, but as you will read this little bit of misinformation nearly gave me a heart attack.
Even worse is when you realise that the 1pm Greyhound departure you had in mind is for the bus on the FOLLOWING leg of the journey and your bus today leaves at 12.10 and it is now 10.12 and you haven’t even packed.
So, in a mild panic already, I check the online schedule at 10.13am and nearly have a hissy fit when I see the buses run only every 30 minutes. BUT, I need to connect with a different line from Downtown Kampooey to Greyhound, that also runs every half hour, but it is not in synchronisation with the previous line, and my initial 15 minute journey may now take 45 minutes.
Panic can quickly set in, when you realise you have less than 30 minutes to pack, take photos of hosts, say farewells, and walk a couple of blocks to catch the 10.42am number one line to connect with the number seven line, to get to the Greyhound depot to catch your 12.10pm bus outta town. And knowing your hosts know how close it is going to be, especially as they gave you a bum steer about the buses, it is a little disconcerting that they don’t offer to give you a lift… again lovely people otherwise ...
And then, despite setting a new land speed record hauling my luggage those couple of blocks to the bus stop, I miss the 10.42am bus because it went through my stop early (!) Now I have to wait another 30 minutes and my 45 minute trip is going to take one hour and 15 minutes and I will get there with only minutes to spare before my bus is due to leave.
Anyhoo, I get the 11.12am number one bus and, and praise the Lord, the number seven bus is already there waiting at the bus interchange, but sans driver. So waiting, waiting, and then panicking for about 12 minutes or so, I ask two local people at the stop if they know if this bus will get me to the Greyhound depot in time for the 12.10pm bus. Oh, no, they say, no way! You need to grab a cab now or you will miss your bus. Where do I go to grab a cab? Is there a taxi stand at this bus interchange hub? Well, no, you have to call the taxi company, we don’t have taxi stands. But I don’t know the number, how do I find out the number? I don’t know, I usually take the bus. So, what am I going to do – how do I get a cab – I have to get that Greyhound bus. I dunno, but you better go catch a cab now or you’re gonna miss it.
All I can imagine is an overhead shot of me, amid the crowd of people (with mobile phones in their hands), with my arms and face upturned to the heavens, and shouting maniacally: "FOR F*CK'S SAKE, WILL SOMEONE PLEASE CALL A TAXI!!!"
But I didn't do that...
So now I am turning into a teapot as the Greyhound bus leaves in 25 minutes and the number seven bus driver is nowhere in sight. Finally just before I have a heart attack the driver turns up and he says, no worries I’ll get to the Greyhound depot in time, he reckons he drops a lot of people there for the 12.10 bus. So I calm down a little and follow the bus route on the map as he drives. Within 10 minutes we are only one block away from the depot and I finally am feeling a bit calmer and can breathe – but then the bus turns in the opposite direction at the lights. What the f*ck!!! It goes and does a big lap through the university and a shopping centre and some more streets.
My hair is turning grey and panic sets in again – was I meant to get off the bus at that stop and walk the block? Is the bus never going to be near the Greyhound bus depot again? I ask the driver and he says no, he goes right to the front door of the depot.
Just before 12 he pulls up across the road from the depot and I had to dodge six lanes of traffic to get across.
Finally get into the queue to get a ticket (no pre-booking or reserving seats) and still can’t relax as it takes forever to get served and it is now 12.10pm and my bus is meant to be leaving. Only once I get served I found out the bus is running late by one hour … and is actually leaving at the time I had initially (and mistakenly) thought it was going to leave. F*ckity!
Putting Kamp Poo behind me, the scenery is something else – once one leaves Kamloops.
I feel like Meg Ryan’s character walking through a little village in France in the movie, A French Kiss – “Stunning, gorgeous, even more beautiful!”
It didn’t take long to get into the high snow capped mountains, clear lakes and rivers, snow on the ground, and forests of different types as pine trees as far as the eye can see. It really is a case of majestic overload.
The road is a triumph in engineering and it makes me sad that Australia does not build more grand infrastructures like this. Comparing the goat track Australia calls the number one highway to just this one mountain road clearly shows how the politicians back in Aus lack any vision or are devoid of any backbone to pursue something remarkable or create anything man made like this that would really put Aus on the map.
I’ll upload piccies tonight, but for now you have to put up with my account in words.
At the dinner stop at a long stretch of servos and fast food outlets in a little town called Golden, I'm scoffing down a hotdog and coffee (very American, eh?) and can hear a loud chirping sound but can't see any type of bird whatsoever or even determine what direction it is coming from.
Eventually notice a little furry thing hovering around the table looking for scraps. It's a Prairie Dog and is the source of the chirping noise. I throw it a crumb, and another one comes out of hiding and then a third. At the same time some people who are sitting in the bus notice what I have going on, and one by one they come out of hiding too to take piccies.
Anyway, even more majestic overload driving onto Banff. Finally get in at 10.20pm, rather than the scheduled 9pm and it is still daylight. Also even though we are surrounded by snow capped mountains, it is probably a very nice 20 - 24 degrees or so. Pleasantly surprised not to be freezing when I step off the bus as it looks very cold.
AND, as soon as I get off the bus, I spot an elk crossing the road! Far out! It is huge! But it quickly disappears into the trees before I can whip out my camera.
And, less impressive, I immediately discover that the locals have a lovely sense of humour. Ask a guy how long it will take to walk to the hostel, and he says about 20 minutes - no worries, I’m trying to work off all the food I ate on the cruise - and off I set.
After 15 minutes, check the directions I wrote down from Google and it is looking like I’ll be there soon. Starting to get dark as the sun had just set, but no worries, not far now.
The only flaw is that the map and the local didn’t mention that after 15 minutes it goes uphill. Maybe not so bad when just walking, but with a day pack on the back, handbag, carry bag, and pulling a case on wheels, well, not my choice of getting there at the end of a long day.
About 20 minutes later and four or five stops to catch breath, it is now just on dark but with street lights around and I am where I think I should be, but can’t see any hostel sign. Spy some people and accost them to see if they know where the hostel is – and I am about 30 metres from the driveway. It was just very badly signed.
Check in, find my six bed dorm and have to immediately search for the actual bed because someone is using it to dry their washing and has draped clothing everywhere. I rearrange their belongings and move the bin they have placed out of the way - but right where my head will be on the lower bunk. Well, I did only get in at 11pm and they probably thought they had it to use for the night.
Sort that out, shower and wash a few things of my own and hang them up around my bed, check the internet and time for sleep about 1am.
I think this town is the retirement centre of Canada. Every second shop is a walking aid or mobilised machine store. And every second person needs one. There really isn’t much else to say … except I also noticed quite a few blind people and there must be significant numbers of them here as the traffic walk signals even make an announcement that it is now ok to cross such and such a street. Forget the tweety bird noises. And there is about ten golf courses in a town of about 85,000. That alone seals it as being a retirement destination ...
Anyhoo, I am even less impressed with Kamplops after trying to leave this morning and I have now learnt yet another travelling (or even a life) lesson: When someone tells you that the buses run “regularly” make sure you ask them to define the term “regularly”.
After being in towns and cities where “regularly” meant every five or ten minutes, it isn’t a good thing to assume this same regularity. Not even when you allow nearly an hour and a half on local transport to get to the Greyhound bus depot – which isn’t even 15 minutes by car.
And it doesn’t help that when asking your knowledgeable local person (who initially assured me they were regular) about how long it takes to walk to the bus stop from their house and other questions about the “regular” bus service, she finally says, “I really don’t know anything about it as I have never caught one”… They really were lovely people otherwise, so I shouldn't be too harsh about it, but as you will read this little bit of misinformation nearly gave me a heart attack.
Even worse is when you realise that the 1pm Greyhound departure you had in mind is for the bus on the FOLLOWING leg of the journey and your bus today leaves at 12.10 and it is now 10.12 and you haven’t even packed.
So, in a mild panic already, I check the online schedule at 10.13am and nearly have a hissy fit when I see the buses run only every 30 minutes. BUT, I need to connect with a different line from Downtown Kampooey to Greyhound, that also runs every half hour, but it is not in synchronisation with the previous line, and my initial 15 minute journey may now take 45 minutes.
Panic can quickly set in, when you realise you have less than 30 minutes to pack, take photos of hosts, say farewells, and walk a couple of blocks to catch the 10.42am number one line to connect with the number seven line, to get to the Greyhound depot to catch your 12.10pm bus outta town. And knowing your hosts know how close it is going to be, especially as they gave you a bum steer about the buses, it is a little disconcerting that they don’t offer to give you a lift… again lovely people otherwise ...
And then, despite setting a new land speed record hauling my luggage those couple of blocks to the bus stop, I miss the 10.42am bus because it went through my stop early (!) Now I have to wait another 30 minutes and my 45 minute trip is going to take one hour and 15 minutes and I will get there with only minutes to spare before my bus is due to leave.
Anyhoo, I get the 11.12am number one bus and, and praise the Lord, the number seven bus is already there waiting at the bus interchange, but sans driver. So waiting, waiting, and then panicking for about 12 minutes or so, I ask two local people at the stop if they know if this bus will get me to the Greyhound depot in time for the 12.10pm bus. Oh, no, they say, no way! You need to grab a cab now or you will miss your bus. Where do I go to grab a cab? Is there a taxi stand at this bus interchange hub? Well, no, you have to call the taxi company, we don’t have taxi stands. But I don’t know the number, how do I find out the number? I don’t know, I usually take the bus. So, what am I going to do – how do I get a cab – I have to get that Greyhound bus. I dunno, but you better go catch a cab now or you’re gonna miss it.
All I can imagine is an overhead shot of me, amid the crowd of people (with mobile phones in their hands), with my arms and face upturned to the heavens, and shouting maniacally: "FOR F*CK'S SAKE, WILL SOMEONE PLEASE CALL A TAXI!!!"
But I didn't do that...
So now I am turning into a teapot as the Greyhound bus leaves in 25 minutes and the number seven bus driver is nowhere in sight. Finally just before I have a heart attack the driver turns up and he says, no worries I’ll get to the Greyhound depot in time, he reckons he drops a lot of people there for the 12.10 bus. So I calm down a little and follow the bus route on the map as he drives. Within 10 minutes we are only one block away from the depot and I finally am feeling a bit calmer and can breathe – but then the bus turns in the opposite direction at the lights. What the f*ck!!! It goes and does a big lap through the university and a shopping centre and some more streets.
My hair is turning grey and panic sets in again – was I meant to get off the bus at that stop and walk the block? Is the bus never going to be near the Greyhound bus depot again? I ask the driver and he says no, he goes right to the front door of the depot.
Just before 12 he pulls up across the road from the depot and I had to dodge six lanes of traffic to get across.
Finally get into the queue to get a ticket (no pre-booking or reserving seats) and still can’t relax as it takes forever to get served and it is now 12.10pm and my bus is meant to be leaving. Only once I get served I found out the bus is running late by one hour … and is actually leaving at the time I had initially (and mistakenly) thought it was going to leave. F*ckity!
Putting Kamp Poo behind me, the scenery is something else – once one leaves Kamloops.
I feel like Meg Ryan’s character walking through a little village in France in the movie, A French Kiss – “Stunning, gorgeous, even more beautiful!”
It didn’t take long to get into the high snow capped mountains, clear lakes and rivers, snow on the ground, and forests of different types as pine trees as far as the eye can see. It really is a case of majestic overload.
The road is a triumph in engineering and it makes me sad that Australia does not build more grand infrastructures like this. Comparing the goat track Australia calls the number one highway to just this one mountain road clearly shows how the politicians back in Aus lack any vision or are devoid of any backbone to pursue something remarkable or create anything man made like this that would really put Aus on the map.
I’ll upload piccies tonight, but for now you have to put up with my account in words.
At the dinner stop at a long stretch of servos and fast food outlets in a little town called Golden, I'm scoffing down a hotdog and coffee (very American, eh?) and can hear a loud chirping sound but can't see any type of bird whatsoever or even determine what direction it is coming from.
Eventually notice a little furry thing hovering around the table looking for scraps. It's a Prairie Dog and is the source of the chirping noise. I throw it a crumb, and another one comes out of hiding and then a third. At the same time some people who are sitting in the bus notice what I have going on, and one by one they come out of hiding too to take piccies.
Anyway, even more majestic overload driving onto Banff. Finally get in at 10.20pm, rather than the scheduled 9pm and it is still daylight. Also even though we are surrounded by snow capped mountains, it is probably a very nice 20 - 24 degrees or so. Pleasantly surprised not to be freezing when I step off the bus as it looks very cold.
AND, as soon as I get off the bus, I spot an elk crossing the road! Far out! It is huge! But it quickly disappears into the trees before I can whip out my camera.
And, less impressive, I immediately discover that the locals have a lovely sense of humour. Ask a guy how long it will take to walk to the hostel, and he says about 20 minutes - no worries, I’m trying to work off all the food I ate on the cruise - and off I set.
After 15 minutes, check the directions I wrote down from Google and it is looking like I’ll be there soon. Starting to get dark as the sun had just set, but no worries, not far now.
The only flaw is that the map and the local didn’t mention that after 15 minutes it goes uphill. Maybe not so bad when just walking, but with a day pack on the back, handbag, carry bag, and pulling a case on wheels, well, not my choice of getting there at the end of a long day.
About 20 minutes later and four or five stops to catch breath, it is now just on dark but with street lights around and I am where I think I should be, but can’t see any hostel sign. Spy some people and accost them to see if they know where the hostel is – and I am about 30 metres from the driveway. It was just very badly signed.
Check in, find my six bed dorm and have to immediately search for the actual bed because someone is using it to dry their washing and has draped clothing everywhere. I rearrange their belongings and move the bin they have placed out of the way - but right where my head will be on the lower bunk. Well, I did only get in at 11pm and they probably thought they had it to use for the night.
Sort that out, shower and wash a few things of my own and hang them up around my bed, check the internet and time for sleep about 1am.
Monday, 6 June 2011
Vancouver is alive with hockey fever
WILD VIBE
There is a major ice hockey game being played right now between Vancouver's Canucks and Boston's Bruins, so Vancouver is going to be either in party mode or riot mode - depending on the outcome. This car is a quick indication of the emotion attached to the local team (snapped this on its way to the stadiun). This game is the third of four playoff games to get into the final and the Canucks have won the first two. If they win this game they are into the finals and I think you will hear the celebrations back in Australia.
Just came back from a major mission to sort out bus info and walked past the stadium where the game was about to start. What a VIBE! People everywhere rushing to get there for the prelim entertainment before the game started at 5pm (just gone that now). Even on the walk right back to where I am staying, the vibe was alive and happening!
Last time the Canucks got into a final game, there were riots etc on the street after the game. But I will be long gone from Vancouver before the final is played.
So, my plan for the rest of the evening is to sit at the youth hostel, drinking pots of Dilmah Earl Grey tea - and some wine now that it is wine-o-clock and I have found a bottle shop in my travels - and hammering the free internet to get future Canadian travel and accommodation plans sorted. Once that is sorted, then I hope to update my backlog of blogs.
VENTURING OUT FOR DINNER
Now websurfing sounded like a good plan, but I had to duck out to get something for dinner right in the middle of game. This is the excitement level in the supermarket I went to.
Yep, it was pretty scary venturing out into the badlands of Vancouver in the middle of a major ice hockey game. I sure was staying in a mean part of town ... I think the most I had to worry about was whether anyone would mug me so that they could have my red silk scarf ...
Spent a total of six bucks for this stuff - enough for dinner tomorrow night too. But might have to buy another spud to go with my remaining slab of meat.
Not sure how interesting this is for everyone, but this a standard type of kitchen in a youth hostel. That's my food cooking in the pan on the left and my bag and (ready) plate on the top left of the island in the foreground.
The finished product: $3 for tonight ... and it was mighty fine!
THE PENNY DROPS
Had noticed quite a few gay male couples in this area, and then it twigged while I was out shopping in the 'hood for dinner. This is a gay precinct. Note the rainbow flags and pink street thingies. Don't know why the penny didn't drop earlier when I bought a bottle of wine around the corner and the the shop had a sign on the door that said it allowed small dogs on a leash in the store ... (no offence Brian)
DOPE
While here I have caught a whiff of dope quite frequently and have just read an article in the local paper about some dude growing more dope than their allowance. So, I'm guessing it must be decriminalised here.
HOCKEY RESULTS
Mid game ... not looking good for the Canucks - the Bruins have scored 4 somethings to their nothings ... gonna be a sad evening in Vancouver.
Final scoreline ... ooooerrrrr - they lost: eight somethings to one something. The mood is very subdued in Vancouver tonight ...
HANDY WEBSITES
I've started up a page on this blog for handy websites, so check in there regularly for my info on good or bad travel websites.
There is a major ice hockey game being played right now between Vancouver's Canucks and Boston's Bruins, so Vancouver is going to be either in party mode or riot mode - depending on the outcome. This car is a quick indication of the emotion attached to the local team (snapped this on its way to the stadiun). This game is the third of four playoff games to get into the final and the Canucks have won the first two. If they win this game they are into the finals and I think you will hear the celebrations back in Australia.
Just came back from a major mission to sort out bus info and walked past the stadium where the game was about to start. What a VIBE! People everywhere rushing to get there for the prelim entertainment before the game started at 5pm (just gone that now). Even on the walk right back to where I am staying, the vibe was alive and happening!
Last time the Canucks got into a final game, there were riots etc on the street after the game. But I will be long gone from Vancouver before the final is played.
So, my plan for the rest of the evening is to sit at the youth hostel, drinking pots of Dilmah Earl Grey tea - and some wine now that it is wine-o-clock and I have found a bottle shop in my travels - and hammering the free internet to get future Canadian travel and accommodation plans sorted. Once that is sorted, then I hope to update my backlog of blogs.
VENTURING OUT FOR DINNER
Now websurfing sounded like a good plan, but I had to duck out to get something for dinner right in the middle of game. This is the excitement level in the supermarket I went to.
Yep, it was pretty scary venturing out into the badlands of Vancouver in the middle of a major ice hockey game. I sure was staying in a mean part of town ... I think the most I had to worry about was whether anyone would mug me so that they could have my red silk scarf ...
Spent a total of six bucks for this stuff - enough for dinner tomorrow night too. But might have to buy another spud to go with my remaining slab of meat.
Not sure how interesting this is for everyone, but this a standard type of kitchen in a youth hostel. That's my food cooking in the pan on the left and my bag and (ready) plate on the top left of the island in the foreground.
The finished product: $3 for tonight ... and it was mighty fine!
THE PENNY DROPS
Had noticed quite a few gay male couples in this area, and then it twigged while I was out shopping in the 'hood for dinner. This is a gay precinct. Note the rainbow flags and pink street thingies. Don't know why the penny didn't drop earlier when I bought a bottle of wine around the corner and the the shop had a sign on the door that said it allowed small dogs on a leash in the store ... (no offence Brian)
DOPE
While here I have caught a whiff of dope quite frequently and have just read an article in the local paper about some dude growing more dope than their allowance. So, I'm guessing it must be decriminalised here.
HOCKEY RESULTS
Mid game ... not looking good for the Canucks - the Bruins have scored 4 somethings to their nothings ... gonna be a sad evening in Vancouver.
Final scoreline ... ooooerrrrr - they lost: eight somethings to one something. The mood is very subdued in Vancouver tonight ...
HANDY WEBSITES
I've started up a page on this blog for handy websites, so check in there regularly for my info on good or bad travel websites.
Friday, 3 June 2011
Jumping ahead to Juneau, Alaska
Mannnnnnnn! Who ever would have thunk that the internet would be so expensive on a cruise? (Still wondering how come they don't charge me for toilet paper by the square.) Anyhoo, had to cross my cyber legs and wait until Juneau, Alaska to update my blog.
This is (literally) me at the moment - taken 30 minutes ago:
Man, life is tough! But someone has to do it! My evil plan is to re-write previous blogs and upload a zillion photos shortly - so, be warned - you may have to re-read stuff - but hopefully it will be more organised and more pictuated - gotta love that word - just made it up after my for fourth Chardy here. Much prefer to give them the money than the cruise ship.
Some more piccies of me hard at work at Juneau, Alaska - did I mention that the weather is an extremely gorgeous 20 deg celcius? Even at the glacier, the weather was extremely mild, so forget the images of snow and glaciers as being chilly. It ain't that bad! Nothing much harsher than a warm spring or autumn day in Townsville.
Here is a local swimming at the foot of the glacier.


Every day since boarding the cruise (by the skin of my teeth, but that is another story), I have sighted whales (blue and orca, and porpoises/dolphins - most of which are non-edible) off the starboard bow. Seems they come out to welcome me and then f*ck off before I can take a good piccie. Teasers!
Below is the cruise ship in port at Juneau.
And these piccies try to capture the extent of the brunch buffet yesterdey.
Man, it is very hard to be a conscientious blogger inbetween travelling wonders and internet blackspots.
Gotta go now and get back on the cyber blackspot I call the Celebrity cruise ship! (Don't want to have to find my own back onto the ship if I miss the embarkation deadline - that's a whole new bucket of fish.)
Bye, Mandy
This is (literally) me at the moment - taken 30 minutes ago:
Man, life is tough! But someone has to do it! My evil plan is to re-write previous blogs and upload a zillion photos shortly - so, be warned - you may have to re-read stuff - but hopefully it will be more organised and more pictuated - gotta love that word - just made it up after my for fourth Chardy here. Much prefer to give them the money than the cruise ship.
Some more piccies of me hard at work at Juneau, Alaska - did I mention that the weather is an extremely gorgeous 20 deg celcius? Even at the glacier, the weather was extremely mild, so forget the images of snow and glaciers as being chilly. It ain't that bad! Nothing much harsher than a warm spring or autumn day in Townsville.
Here is a local swimming at the foot of the glacier.


Every day since boarding the cruise (by the skin of my teeth, but that is another story), I have sighted whales (blue and orca, and porpoises/dolphins - most of which are non-edible) off the starboard bow. Seems they come out to welcome me and then f*ck off before I can take a good piccie. Teasers!
Below is the cruise ship in port at Juneau.
And these piccies try to capture the extent of the brunch buffet yesterdey.
Man, it is very hard to be a conscientious blogger inbetween travelling wonders and internet blackspots.
Gotta go now and get back on the cyber blackspot I call the Celebrity cruise ship! (Don't want to have to find my own back onto the ship if I miss the embarkation deadline - that's a whole new bucket of fish.)
Bye, Mandy
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